Risotto: good for the earth, good for you

Risotto has become ubiquitous on restaurant menus, but, believe me, that doesn’t always mean it’s good. I’ve had my share of mushy, overcooked, undercooked, oversauced versions. Usually, though, I’d attribute the success of the dish to the cook, not the Carnaroli (the variety of rice used in risotti) used.

However, I’m won over by a beautiful product . Acquerello rice is grown in Piedmont by two brothers dedicated not only to growing excellent, organic rice but to preserving the land’s ecology. Dragonflies, tadpoles, herons and other water birds help keep down mosquitos and weeds; a special year-long cool storage and an old system of polishing the rice preserve the quality of the rice; production is kept low and very controlled. So is distribution.

In Boston, Barbara Lynch has used Acquerello rice at No. 9 Park, and it’s sold at Salumeria Italiana in the North End.

The result is exceptional risotto — each grain retains its shape while absorbing the flavor of the sauce. Risotto takes a little time to make. This rice, sold vacuum-packed,  makes the time worthwhile.

Organic and excellent

RISOTTO WITH CELERY AND SAGE

Serves 4

3 cups chicken broth

1-2 cups hot water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/3 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, chopped fine

1 1/2 cups Acquerello rice

3/4 cups celery leaves, chopped

1 cup celery ribs, chopped

4 leaves sage, chopped

1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Heat the chicken stock in a small saucepan to simmering. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan with a heavy bottom. Add the onion and garlic and saute for 3 minutes until onion is translucent. Add rice and stir to coat. Stir in celery leaves. Reduce heat to medium-low. Begin adding hot stock, first one cup, then stir. Add more stock, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring and simmering until liquid is absorbed. When stock is gone, add chopped celery and sage leaves. Stir, and begin to add water 1/2 cup at a time. After about 2o minutes, taste risotto to see if grains are soft. Add more water, if they are still hard, 1/2 cup at a time. Cooking time should be about 25 minutes. Don’t overcook, grains of rice should stay intact. Risotto will continue cooking for a few minutes after the heat is turned off.

This recipe is adapted from Marcella Hazan’s “More Classic Italian Cooking”