"Fully Committed" the play

Last week I made a restaurant reservation, and was bemused when the young woman told me that “We’re fully committed” that night. It was the second or third time I’d heard it in a few weeks. It seemed so late ’90s when the play of that name chronicled the hot-hot-hot years of New York and San Francisco dining. But everything that goes around, comes around, so Fully Committed is having a comeback.

Which brings up the issue of the phrases that stick in the restaurant industry, year after year, trend after trend. “Still working on that?” “Are you finished yet.” And the classic “Fries with that?”

What’s your evergreen restaurant phrase?

Last night we met friends at Il Casale in Belmont. Early, very early, because the di Magistris’ brothers new restaurant in an old firehouse down from where they grew up is packed all night, every night. No wonder. It’s warm, it’s welcoming, the vibe is lively from the baby crawling around at the next table to Mary Richardson of Chronicle on the other side to seemingly everybody from the near and western suburbs crowded into the long bar area and noisy dining room.

Midway through fantastic sfizi (small bites, great ones like chicken liver crostini and burrata with Sicilian oregano and pistachios) chef Dante diMagistris strode, just back from Italy, with truffles. And we were treated to tagliatelle with a soft-poached egg topped with freshly-shaved truffles. Dante did the shaving, remind me of the first time I wrote about him. In a review of blu, I talked about this young chef who’s enthusiasm for the truffles he shaved over pasta transformed the dining experience.

Il Casale is a hit for good reasons — oh, did I tell you that Daniele Baliani, one of the great talents in any kitchen, is cooking there. And did I say that Leon diMagistris, the father famed for his high-style salon in Belmont, chats with customers. Or that the prices are reasonable, the pasta comes in small or large portions, and the staff couldn’t have been more solicitous about a diner allergic to olive oil.

All this and truffles, too. No wonder it’s tough to get a table.